POINTS OF INTEREST
The spirit of heroism is palpable in the huge Corinthian-style barracks and arsenal complex of the Military Museum, which houses one of the largest artillery collections in the world. Visitors can ogle a 20-ton bronze cannon and admire Vasco de Gama's sword in a room dedicated to the explorer and his voyages of discovery. As you clatter through endless, echoing rooms of weapons, uniforms, and armor, you may be lucky enough to be followed—at a respectful distance—by a guide who, without speaking a word of English, can convey exactly how that bayonet was jabbed or that gruesome flail swung. In this beautifully ornate building there is also a collection of 18th- to 20th-century art. The museum is on the eastern edge of the Alfama, at the foot of the hill and opposite the Santa Apolónia station.